The secret world of plus-size bras

WHAT IS A PLUS-SIZE BRA?

When we talk about plus-size bras, we’re speaking about any bra that uses plus-size bra construction techniques — things like more cup capacity, enhanced support, and heavier weighted fabrics. It’s less about a specific size, and more about the special features and techniques used to make the bra. When built correctly, a plus-size bra will feel comfortable on the body, will have enough lift and support, and won’t sag with body heat. 

A great plus-size bra is an art, not a science. As bodies go up in size, there’s also a greater variation in shape and distribution of weight. Rather than simply scaling up a smaller bra, plus-size bra makers will create patterns that specifically account for those fluctuations to give bra wearers a more comfortable and supportive fit. 

FINDING YOUR PERFECT FIT

Typically, when bras are made, you’ll grade, or increase, the garment in size by a uniform amount to get larger bra sizes. Extended sizing is when you don’t have a break in your grading and you use the same equation to produce a full size range. However, if you’re in the market for a plus-size bra, you want to look for a bra producer that takes the time to create bras specifically for a plus-size body as opposed to simply cross-grading all the way through their size range.

Every time you create a new cup size, you have to create a mold, which can be expensive and time consuming. This is why some brands opt not to do this. It’s the responsibility of brands who serve a plus-size customer to do the right thing and take on the extra time and investment. At Honeylove, we always choose the slow, steady, and sometimes more expensive route if it means creating a better product. Not every brand prioritizes this, but when you’re shopping for bras, you should find companies that value this type of quality and workmanship and take the extra steps. 

HOW PLUS-SIZE BRAS ARE MADE

Plus-size bras are engineered slightly differently than standard size bras because the components of the bra have to be more effective. That means not only increasing the bras in size, but also upgrading the pieces of the bra that are doing the work to hold you in, provide a natural shape without looking stiff, and give enough support. This includes sourcing the right liners, getting elastics with the right width and amount of stretch and recovery, and grading up the thickness of the wires so they have a slightly thicker gauge. 

Here are some elements to look for when determining the quality of a plus-size bra.

• Straps need to be stabilized, wider, and a bit less stretchy than its standard size counterparts. A less stretchy strap means that when the garment is warmed up by body heat, it can still maintain the lift as opposed to having the weight of your breasts drop the bra.
• Cup capacity can often be too shallow if plus-size bras haven’t been properly graded. If the cup isn’t big enough to properly support your chest, it probably isn’t correctly sized.
• A great plus-size bra will have more coverage on the side wings and strong enough elastic in the top and bottom band to increase cross-pull when you hook the bra in the back. 
• Slings are part of the internal structure of the bra that provides lift and prevents spreading of east and west. Not all bras include them, but a great plus-size bra will.
• Boning on either side of the best helps keep the chest pointing forward.
• A wider hook and eye at the back can improve cross-bracing and support in the underband.
• A higher front gore can help avoid spillage out of the cups.
• Additional coverage in the back provides extra smoothing.

CALCULATING BRA SIZE

Traditionally, bra size has been calculated by adding 4 or 5 to your underbust measurement to produce a band size. While that method still works for smaller sizes, it’s actually much easier to calculate band size for plus-size bras. If your underbust measurement is 42 or higher, you’ll either 1 if the number is odd, or use your exact measurement if the number is even. 

Next, you’ll measure your bust at the fullest part of your chest. Subtract your original band measurement from your bust measurement, and that will give you a number. Match the number to a cup size using the chart below, and that will give you your bra size.

SIGNS YOUR BRA ISN’T FITTING PROPERLY

• Your breasts don’t fill the cups, leaving gaps of space or wrinkling in the cups
• Your breasts spill out over the cups, creating an indent in your silhouette
• You can feel underwire pinching your skin
• You see red marks on your skin after you take your bra off
• You don’t feel secure or supported
• You feel any pain or discomfort while wearing your bra

SIGNS YOU’VE FOUND THE PERFECT FITTING BRA

• The band of the bra should be level all the way around your body
• Your breasts should fill the cup without spilling over
• The straps should stay on your shoulders without digging in
• The center of the bra lays flat against your chest between your breasts
• Your bra is so comfortable, you forget you’re wearing it

BEST PLUS-SIZE BRA STYLES

These days, the vast majority of bra styles are available in plus-size. While some styles must be modified in order to provide the right amount of support and coverage, you should feel empowered to experiment with different shapes and looks based on your preferences and outfits.

Traditionally, the best plus-size bras offer support, lift, and smoothing. These styles are a great place to start: 

T-shirt bras are designed to be seamless and feature smooth, molded cups that give breasts a natural, rounded shape. 

Full cup bra

A full cup bra features cups that fully cover the breasts. Because each breast is encapsulated completely within the bra cups, this bra will not create cleavage or reveal any of the chest.

Longline bra

A longline bra features an extended bra band that hits lower on your torso. The bra band could range from a couple of inches long, or it could hit as far down as your waistline. The extended band can add additional support, comfort, and even waistline slimming. 

A minimizer or sports bra

Minimizer bras are designed to make your chest appear smaller without distorting their natural shape. Compression throughout the bust gives extra support, coverage, and shaping. Its cups are made of firm, non-stretch fabrics to condense breast tissue for a more minimal presentation.

Front-closure bra

Front-closure bras fasten at the center of your chest instead of at the back, making it easier to take the bra on and off. The additional tension can enhance lift and add extra support.

HOW TO CHOOSE A PLUS-SIZE BRA

Look for bras that have solutions. If the issue is that you’re fleshier in the back, then look for a bra that is made with that in mind. If you’re someone that doesn’t like how full you are (for example, it prevents you from wearing button downs), look for comfortable minimizers. For asymmetry, you’ll want a push-up with removable inserts. There’s no one-size-fits-all answer; it’s about finding what makes you feel happy and confident.

PLUS SIZE BRAS THAT HELP WITH BACK FAT

Look for a bra with wide side wings and smoothing, compressive fabric. Honeylove’s V-Neck Bra is the ultimate underwire-free smoothing bra. Made with wide, thick straps that lay gently against the skin and a seam-free design that disappears under clothing, this bra is specifically designed to eliminate bulging.

PLUS SIZE BRAS THAT HELP WITH SAGGING

A t-shirt bra with an underwire is the best solution to help with sagging. This classic style is extremely common and versatile. Additionally, push-up bras can be a great solution for anyone experiencing volume loss as the angled pads can fill up some of the extra room.

IS DDD THE SAME AS F?

Yes, these sizes are interchangeable. Sizes DD and DDD are standard in the United States, and sizes E and F are more common internationally. Though the label may fluctuate amongst different brands, the cup size will be the same size. Increasingly, you may also see this size written as DD/E or DDD/F to help eliminate confusion.