Find Your Bra Size by Identifying Your Fit Issue

February 4, 2025

by Sophie Weiss


Have you ever worn a bra and realized it wasn’t quite fitting you in the way you wanted? Sometimes, finding a new bra size is as simple as identifying your fit issue. We’ll show you how to a) identify what part of the bra isn’t fitting properly, and b) determine a better bra size for your body based on what issues you’re having. We’ve even included a handy bra size chart that you can use to help you solve the fit problem you’re experiencing. 

FIT ISSUE #1: Your band fits, but the cup is too small or too large.

Signs you may be experiencing this fit issue

Cup Gaping: Gaps or wrinkles in the cup indicate that the cup size is too large, leading to poor support and an unflattering silhouette.

Solution: Opt for a smaller cup size or try bras with different cup styles that better conform to your breast shape, such as molded cups or contour bras.

Quad Boob: When breast tissue spills over the top of the cup, creating a “quad boob” effect, it’s a sign that the cup size is too small.

Solution: Select a larger cup size to ensure all breast tissue is contained within the cups. You may also need to adjust the band size accordingly for proper support.

How to solve this fit issue

Start by identifying your current bra size on the bra size chart at the bottom of this article. 

In this example, let’s say your original size is a 34C. If you are looking for a smaller cup with the same band size, you would move up vertically to a 34B. If you’re looking for a larger cup with the same band size, you would move vertically down to a 34D. 

Bra size chart showing vertical movement to adjust cup size while keeping the same band size
32 Band 34 Band 36 Band
32B 34B - Move up for a smaller cup 36B
32C 34C - Current size 36C
32D 34D - Move down for a bigger cup 36D


FIT ISSUE #2: Your cup fits, but the band is too tight or too loose.

Signs you might be experiencing this fit issue

Underwire Digging In: If the underwire of your bra digs into your skin, it can cause discomfort and even bruising.

Solution: Ensure the underwire sits flat against your ribcage and encloses your breast tissue fully. If it digs in, try adjusting the band size or opting for a bra with a different underwire shape.

Band Riding Up: A bra band that rides up in the back indicates that it’s too large, leading to inadequate support.

Solution: Choose a bra with a snug-fitting band that sits parallel to the ground. You may need to decrease the band size and increase the cup size for a proper fit.

How to solve this fit issue

In this case, you’d go diagonally. Go down to the left corner if you need a smaller band, or move up to right corner if you need a larger band. I know it feels counterintuitive that you would need to change your cup size as well, but if you’re solely trying to address the fit of your band, you’ll need to make an opposite but equal change in your cup size as well to keep the same fit in the cups. These are also known as your sister size. For more information on sister sizing, check out this blog post.

Bra size chart showing diagonal movement to adjust band size while keeping the same cup volume (sister sizing)
32 Band 34 Band 36 Band
32B 34B 36B - Move up for a looser band
32C 34C - Current size 36C
32D - Move down for a tighter band 34D 36D


FIT ISSUE #3: Your cup and band are either both too big, or both too small.

Signs you might be experiencing this fit issue

Restricted Movement: If your bra restricts your movement or feels too tight, it may indicate a sizing issue.

Solution: Ensure the band provides firm support without feeling overly tight. Consider trying a larger band size or a bra with more stretch in the fabric for increased comfort and mobility.

How to solve this fit issue

To solve for this, you’ll move horizontally. If you move to the left, you’ll get a smaller band and cup. If you move to the right, you’ll get a larger band and cup. So, if you’re wearing a 34C, but you need a bigger size, you’ll move up to a 36C. If you need a smaller size, you’ll want to try a 32C.

Bra size chart showing horizontal movement to adjust both cup and band size together
32 Band 34 Band 36 Band
32B 34B 36B
32C - Move left for smaller cup and band 34C - Current size 36C - Move right for bigger cup and band
32D 34D 36D

Want to try this on your own? Here’s a chart for you to practice! Locate your current bra size on the chart, then move accordingly based on the fit issue you’re experiencing. 

Full bra size chart showing sizes from 30A to 44H organized by band size (rows) and cup size (columns)
A Cup B Cup C Cup D Cup DD Cup F Cup G Cup H Cup
30A 30B 30C 30D 30DD 30F 30G 30H
32A 32B 32C 32D 32DD 32F 32G 32H
34A 34B 34C 34D 34DD 34F 34G 34H
36A 36B 36C 36D 36DD 36F 36G 36H
38A 38B 38C 38D 38DD 38F 38G 38H
40A 40B 40C 40D 40DD 40F 40G 40H
42A 42B 42C 42D 42DD 42F 42G 42H
44A 44B 44C 44D 44DD 44F 44G 44H

Additional fit issues

Sometimes solving a fit issue isn’t linked to going up or down in sizing. It may be solved by making slight adjustments to your bra, or by trying another style of bra that works better for your body type. 

Straps Digging In

Straps that dig into your shoulders can cause discomfort and leave marks.

Solution: Adjust the straps so they provide support without digging into your skin. Consider bras with wider or padded straps for added comfort.

Uneven Breasts

If one breast appears larger or spills out more than the other, it may indicate a fit issue. This is common with an asymmetric breast shape.

Solution: Choose bras that accommodate the larger breast, such as adjustable bras with removable padding or bras with stretchy cups that conform to your breast shape.

Lack of Support

A bra that doesn’t provide adequate support can lead to discomfort and back pain.

Solution: Ensure the bra band provides the most support by fitting snugly around your ribcage. Consider bras with underwire or reinforced side panels for added support.

Slipping Straps

Straps that constantly slip off your shoulders can be irritating and compromise support.

Solution: Tighten the straps to ensure they stay in place without digging into your shoulders. If they continue to slip, consider bras with convertible or racerback straps for better stability.

Bulging Under the Arms

If you notice bulges of flesh under the arms or around the sides of the bra, it may indicate an improper fit.

Solution: To contain underarm bulges, opt for bras with wider side panels or higher wings. Ensure the band fits snugly and doesn’t ride up, which can exacerbate the issue.

Puckering Fabric

Fabric that puckers or wrinkles in the cup area suggests a mismatch between the bra size and your breast shape.

Solution: Try bras with different cup styles or constructions to find one that fits your breast shape more seamlessly. Molded cups or contour bras may help eliminate puckering.

Center Gore Doesn’t Lie Flat

The center gore, the piece of fabric between the cups, should lie flat against your sternum. It may indicate the cups are too small or too close together if it doesn't.

Solution: Choose bras with a wider center gore or try styles with a different cup construction that accommodates your breast shape better.


Sophie Weiss

Sophie Weiss is a writer and bra expert based in Los Angeles.


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